Underestimating a double-breasted suit by it outdated isn’t a really wise thing to do. These suits are, in fact, up to date because they have been adopted by the modern market. You can as well call these suites timeless. You’ll spot fashion icons and celebrities wearing these suits, from fashion week events to summer film festivals and every other place that matters.
Even though it is best that you work with a tailor to get to fit of your suit just right, it is also important that you know the correct proportions. This will help you supervise your tailor better to make sure he gets you what you want.
- The Basics
Just like every other suit, the shoulders of your double-breasted suit are pretty important. The seams should correspond to your natural shape. The suit’s collar should rest against your shirt, having no gaps or bunching when you turn to the side. The sleeves’ pitch corresponds with your natural stance in order for the fabric not to look twisted in odd ways.
- The Lapels
These suits come along with peak lapels that make your chest look wider and create an hourglass shape. The modern versions are more understated than the older versions. It’s your choice on which one you would prefer to rock.
- The Body
If you’ve seen one of these old school gangster movies, you would notice that they always wore DB suits and those versions were characterized by their boxy, looser shape. Today’s version, however, is slimmer all over, which makes ultimately look better. If the stomach area of the jacket is cut slim instead of looking like a square, it’ll also help you shave off a couple of pounds. With that said, make sure the jacket doesn’t pull when buttoned and that the lapels lay flat. When it comes to fit, you don’t want your suit tight; neither do you want it too big.
- The Buttons
Traditionally, DB suits are meant to have about six or eight external buttons. But there are others that have two or four external buttons; this looks better on you if you’re on the shorter side of the height equation. No matter how many buttons your jacket has, it is always suitable to leave the bottom button unfastened, just like a single-breasted suit—but button the bottom interior button, so the jacket stays closed and lays flat.
Generally speaking, double-breasted suits look better when they’re buttoned. But as with everything in menswear, there are always exceptions.