The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Perfect Tuxedo

Few garments hold a candle to the iconic tuxedo in the pantheon of menswear. This pinnacle of sartorial elegance has long stood as the gold standard for formal attire, a symbol of sophistication and an unwavering statement of style. Its significance in a man’s wardrobe is unparalleled, reserved for the most illustrious occasions where the dress code demands nothing short of impeccable.

Here at Hidalgo Brothers, we appreciate the significance of selecting the perfect tuxedo. It’s not simply a matter of fashion; it’s a choice that can elevate one’s presence in any formal gathering, from weddings to galas, embodying grace and gravitas. This guide, crafted with the precision and expertise honed by years at Savile Row, is designed to walk you through every step of this critical decision-making process.

Expect to uncover the subtleties of style and fit, the nuances of fabric selection, and the fine art of accessorising. Whether you’re a seasoned formal wear enthusiast or navigating the tuxedo waters for the first time, our ultimate guide will ensure you are equipped to make an informed choice.

The Components of a TuxedoA tuxedo and its accessories

A gentleman’s foray into the world of black-tie events begins with understanding the distinction between a standard suit and a tuxedo. While both are staples of a well-curated wardrobe, a tuxedo is set apart by its sartorial specifications that denote formality and elegance. The satin on the jacket’s lapels, buttons, pocket trim, and the trousers’ side stripes distinguish a tuxedo from its less formal counterpart, along with the traditional use of a bow tie and cummerbund or waistcoat.

Here are some essential tuxedo components:

1. Jacket

The tuxedo jacket is the centrepiece of your ensemble. Characterised by its sleek lapels, often peaked or shawl-collared in a lustrous finish, it defines the outfit’s level of formality. A single-breasted design is most common, with one or two buttons, offering a universally flattering silhouette.

2. Trousers

Tuxedo trousers mirror the jacket’s formality, typically featuring a stripe down the leg that complements the jacket’s lapels. They are higher-waisted and worn without a belt, ensuring a clean line and a polished look when paired with the jacket.

3. Shirt

The shirt is the foundation upon which the tuxedo is built. Traditionally, it is white with a bib front and either a wingtip or turndown collar. The choice of pleated or piqué bib front adds texture and depth, while the collar style should align with the bow tie and the overall level of formality.

4. Waistcoat or Cummerbund

Choosing between a waistcoat and a cummerbund is one of personal preference and occasion. A waistcoat adds a layer of sophistication and is often chosen for its formality, while a cummerbund pleats up, serves to maintain the tuxedo’s sleek profile, and historically was used to cover the waistband and shirt’s bottom.

5. Bow Tie

The quintessential tuxedo companion, the bow tie, is most traditionally in black. It should match the lapel’s fabric and finish, either in satin or grosgrain, and is best tied by hand to ensure a personal touch of character.

6. Shoes

Footwear should be as refined as the tuxedo itself. Patent leather Oxfords or highly polished leather dress shoes in black are the most appropriate choices, with a sleek and minimalist design to complement the tuxedo’s elegance.

7. Accessories

The devil is in the details, and with tuxedos, this adage never rings truer. Cufflinks, a pocket square, and other accessories like stud sets add a personal touch while maintaining the outfit’s integrity. These should be chosen with restraint – to complement, not overshadow, the tuxedo’s classic appeal.

Each component of the tuxedo is a testament to the art of classic menswear. When harmoniously combined, they create an ensemble that transcends the mere sum of its parts, ensuring that the wearer stands apart on any formal occasion with distinction and poise.

Occasions for Wearing a Tuxedo

The tuxedo is not an everyday garment; it is the attire of celebration, reserved for the pinnacle of social gatherings. Understanding when to don this symbol of refinement is as important as its cut and fit. Black-tie events, the most common tuxedo platform, are explicit in their expectation of elegance. Here, the tuxedo is de rigueur, a uniform that denotes a man’s respect for the occasion’s grandeur.

Operatic performances and classical concerts offer a cultural bastion for the tuxedo. It’s an opportunity to honour the arts with a display of one’s own through the fabric and finesse of formal wear. The tuxedo complements the sophistication of such events, allowing one to be in visual harmony with the surroundings.

Weddings, particularly evening receptions, are when the tuxedo truly shines, allowing grooms and guests alike to partake in the day’s ceremonial magnificence. The tuxedo is not just clothing but part of the day’s narrative, adding to the lifelong memories being crafted.

A man wearing a tuxedo at a wedding

Prom nights also see a resurgence of the tuxedo as young gentlemen step into the rite of passage that bids farewell to adolescence and welcomes the dawn of adulthood. It’s a moment that calls for a garment that is both timeless and yet entirely of the moment.

Gala dinners, often aligned with charitable fundraising or awards ceremonies, are another bastion for the tuxedo. These events are steeped in a tradition that pairs philanthropy with peerless style, and the tuxedo serves as a beacon of one’s personal commitment to both the cause and the code of conduct.

Whether toasting to success at an industry award evening, celebrating personal milestones, or simply enjoying the pinnacle of performance arts, the tuxedo remains the undisputed champion of formal attire. Its presence speaks to tradition, but its continued relevance speaks to an enduring legacy of style.

Selecting the Right Colour and Fabric

The discerning gentleman knows that fabric and colour are paramount when the occasion calls for a tuxedo. The classic tuxedo is most commonly crafted from wool, favoured for its versatility, durability, and elegance. Wool’s adaptability to temperature makes it a year-round choice, with lighter weaves such as tropical wool for summer soirées and heavier weights for the winter months.

Velvet emerges as a luxurious alternative, often reserved for events of a particular grand scale or when a gentleman wishes to make a bold sartorial statement. Its plush texture exudes a regal charm that is both seen and felt, ideal for occasions as the nights draw in.

With its natural sheen and sumptuous feel, Silk is another opulent choice. A silk tuxedo catches the light with a subtle lustre, ensuring the wearer stands out with sophistication.

For warmer climes or outdoor events, linen and cotton present themselves as favourable options. Linen, with its inherent breathability and relaxed elegance, suits summer weddings and garden parties, where formal does not preclude comfort. Cotton tuxedos, often in lighter shades, offer a crisp, modern alternative that maintains formality while embracing the season’s warmth.

When selecting the colour, tradition dictates black as the quintessential choice, promising unmatched versatility and timelessness. Midnight blue, a close relative, offers a contemporary twist with a rich depth that holds its hue even in the dimmest of lights. For the audacious, white tuxedos are a bold statement, often reserved for the most formal summer events or tropical locales.

The fabric and colour of your tuxedo are not just a reflection of personal style but also an ode to the occasion’s character. With each choice, a gentleman weaves his narrative into the evening’s tapestry, one thread of elegance at a time.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Wearing a Tuxedo

Navigating the nuances of black-tie attire can be a minefield for the uninitiated. To ensure sartorial success, it is critical to sidestep common pitfalls associated with wearing a tuxedo.

A tuxedo

1. Wearing the Wrong Shirt

One must not underestimate the importance of the correct shirt. A wingtip collar is a traditional choice for a tuxedo, designed to complement the bow tie and provide a clean, horizontal line. No matter how fine, a regular collared shirt can diminish the tuxedo’s impact.

2. Assuming Your Tuxedo Must Be Black

While black is the traditional hue for tuxedos, it is not the sole option. Midnight blue is a venerable alternative that can appear even darker than black under artificial light, offering a subtle twist on tradition.

3. Adding Unnecessary Accessories

In the realm of formalwear, restraint is a virtue. Over-accessorising can lead to a cluttered look that detracts from the tuxedo’s inherent elegance. Stick to the essentials: a bow tie, a cummerbund or waistcoat if desired, and perhaps cufflinks or a pocket square for a touch of personal flair.

4. Renting a Tuxedo

While renting may seem economical, a rented tuxedo often betrays itself with an imperfect fit and generic design. Investing in a tailored tuxedo ensures a perfect silhouette and signifies a commitment to quality and individuality.

5. Wearing Casual Footwear

Footwear is the foundation of any outfit and should be chosen with care. Casual shoes, no matter how polished, are incongruous with a tuxedo. Instead, opt for patent leather or highly polished dress shoes that align with the tuxedo’s formal aesthetic.

A tuxedo is more than an outfit; it is a statement. Avoiding these common mistakes will ensure that your statement is one of impeccable taste and unassailable style.


While fraught with decisions, the journey to selecting the perfect tuxedo is a testament to personal style and sophistication. A well-tailored tuxedo is an investment, not merely in fabric but in your personal brand, a declaration of your presence at any formal event. The rules are simple, yet the execution is an art. From the choice of fabric to the silhouette and the fine details, every element is a reflection of the wearer’s discernment.

At Hidalgo Brothers, we are not just tailors; we are custodians of a timeless tradition that honours the gentleman’s art of dressing. We invite you to visit us on Savile Row, where we can collaborate to craft a tuxedo that resonates with your style and perfectly fits your silhouette. Whether for a wedding, gala, or any black-tie event, allow us to tailor your experience with the same precision we apply to our craft.


1. Can I wear a tuxedo to a business event?

A tuxedo is traditionally reserved for formal social events and is often considered too formal for business settings. However, a tuxedo would be appropriate if the event specifies a black-tie dress code.

2. What is the difference between a peak and a shawl lapel?

A peak lapel is characterised by sharp edges that point upwards towards the shoulders, considered more formal and often found on double-breasted jackets. A shawl lapel has a continuous curve without a break and is typically seen on more traditional tuxedos.

3. How should I store my tuxedo to keep it pristine?

A tuxedo should be stored in a breathable garment bag in a cool, dry place. Use a hanger that supports the jacket’s shoulders and ensure the waistband or hem hangs the trousers to avoid creases. Regularly brush the tuxedo with a soft garment brush to keep it clean and dust-free.